Cradle Mountain

Cradle Mountain

It had been over an hour of driving in the dark along winding back roads when we neared our accommodation for the weekend. This was the kind of road that required your high beams be on to be able to see the next turn, and we could only hope that a wallaby or a wombat wouldn't be on the road around the next bend. Entering the gates of the rural Tasmanian hobby farm, we did not know what to expect. Would these first-time Airbnb hosts be crazy? Maybe they're mad scientists planning to perform their next experiments on us. Or, worse yet, maybe they won't like my jokes. The wind howled as we parked the rental car in front of the house, adding drama to a potentially traumatic situation. As we got out of the car, a shadowy figure opened the front door. Shouting over the wind, she eliminated all of my fears with a simple question: "Do you guys want nachos for dinner?" I knew we were in good hands - evil and nachos simply don't coexist.

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Linnea and I recently bought cheap flights to Launceston, Tasmania. And before I go any further, I need to clarify for any readers out there whose Australia geography isn't great: Tasmania is a state in Australia. It's an island south of the mainland, just an hour flight from Melbourne. For whatever reason, the name 'Tasmania' seems to invoke images of a foreign, exotic land. This image is incorrect. Tasmania is neither foreign nor exotic to a mainland Aussie. This isn't to say that it's not wonderful because it is - it's covered in picturesque valleys, lovely coastline and beaches, and mountains worth climbing. Arguably the most famous of these mountains worth climbing is Cradle Mountain, which was our main destination for this trip.

As I alluded to earlier, being the first guests in an Airbnb is a risky maneuver. You don't necessarily know what you're getting yourself into without seeing the reviews of fellow travelers. In this case, the risk paid off. Our hosts were former cafe owners who miss working in hospitality, meaning they focused their hospitality energy on us for the weekend. Not only were we greeted with nachos, but we were given a breakfast menu each evening upon which we indicated what we wanted the next morning and when we wanted it. Waking up to breakfast cooked to order (on different days, I had egg and bacon parcels, smashed avo, and a farmer's breakfast) and barista-made coffee each morning was as spectacular as it sounds, and it was made even better by the affection of the hosts' five long-haired chihuahuas.

A week before we planned to visit Cradle Mountain, several feet of snow fell in the national park, which can happen just about any time of year. There was enough snow that visitors weren't allowed because the driving conditions were too dangerous. This was worrisome because we had just a few days in town, so bad weather could easily spoil our plans. Lucky for us, the few days after the snowstorm were snow-free with temperatures high enough to make the roads safe for driving. And lucky for me, because I hadn't seen snow in well over a year, there was still snow on the hiking trails. 18 months without snow is a long time for born-and-raised Minnesotan! I got my fair share of snow, a couple of times breaking through the crunchy top layer to find myself submerged up to my waist. Using the forecast as our guide, our first full day in the area was the day we went to Cradle Mountain. It was the right choice - most days at Cradle Mountain are foggy and rainy, but we were treated with a couple of hours of sunshine as we hiked around Dove Lake, throwing snowballs and enjoying the beautiful scenery along the way. The peak wasn't accessible due to snow and ice, so we had to settle for views of the peak instead of from the peak - I hope to make it back someday when the summit is safely reachable.

With the main destination of the trip behind us, we enjoyed a few of the area's lesser-known attractions over the next couple of days. One day was spent driving along Tassie's northern coast and indulging in vices, including a chocolate factory, a brewery, and pizza. The next day was spent hiking to the top of Mount Roland to work off those vices. Before we knew it we had to say goodbye to our gracious hosts, 5 chihuahuas that I hadn't expected to like so much, and Elmo the miniature horse. We also had to say goodbye to Tasmania, whose loveliness is a bit of an open secret among those who have been. I'm happy to be in on the secret and already have plans to go back with my sister and cousin in December.

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24 Hours in Tasmania

24 Hours in Tasmania

My latest trip was inspired by Aziz Ansari. I haven't met him, but I feel like I know him after watching his Netflix original series Master of None. In the show's first season, Aziz's New York-based character takes a woman on a one day date to Nashville. Ever since I saw this episode, I found the notion of flying somewhere for a date very appealing. With this in mind, in April I bought flights to Hobart so Linnea and I could spend 24 hours of an August weekend on a date in Tasmania. The fun part? Linnea didn't know about the flights.

Linnea and I like to travel. We want to see as much of Australia as we can and are always keeping an eye out for good deals on flights. Between early April, when I bought our flights, and late July, when I told Linnea about our 24 hour trip, she mentioned wanting to go to Hobart several times. I fended off those suggestions, and, against all odds, managed to completely surprise her a week before the trip with (what I thought was) a very smooth line: "Do you know where we'll be a week from now?" Confused, she washed down her bite of pizza with a swig of Shiraz and let me know that she had no idea where we'd be. I told her we'd be in Hobart. She didn't believe me. After I repeated where we'd be, her disbelief changed subjects from where we'd be to the fact that I'd kept a secret since April.

For those unfamiliar, Hobart is the capital of Tasmania, which is an Australian island state around an hour flight from Melbourne. Upon landing, we drove our rental car straight to the iconic Salamanca Market, a diverse and surprisingly large market on Hobart's waterfront held every Saturday. Linnea's expression below makes it clear how she feels about trying a salmon sausage for lunch.

Our next stop was MONA (Museum of Old and New Art). While neither of us are typically art museum people, we gave it a go based on recommendations from friends. After being delighted, horrified, and intrigued during our wander through the museum, I second their recommendation.

Our evening was spent doing a few of our favourite things. We had happy hour oysters at Pearl + Co on the waterfront, tasted local craft beer at Hobart Brewing Company, and split a pizza at Ristorante Da Angelo before a great night sleep at Montacute Boutique Bunkhouse. Before catching our flight the next morning, we enjoyed coffee and eggs Benedict at the charming Harbour Lights Cafe while watching a gorgeous sunrise over the harbour. I wasn't ready to depart Hobart, but my dad would appreciate that I took his advice to "always leave wanting more."

I suppose the moral of the story is this: If you have the chance to explore a new place, do it. You can pack a lot into 24 hours.

Uluru

Uluru

After finally making it to the Outback, I wish I hadn't waited so long to get there. Of the trips I've taken in Australia, the trip to Uluru is my favourite. It's so vast, so beautiful, so Australian. I can't recommend a trip to the Outback enough and am already looking forward to returning.

The cast of characters for this trip picks up where we left off in our Great Barrier Reef chapter: Bryan (college friend who also responds to "Cassowary Mike"), Linnea (my esteemed adventure associate), and me (friendly neighbourhood blog author). And I suppose before I get any further, I should be sure you know what Uluru is. While looking at photos of it may lead you to think that it's a big rock, it's more than that. It has a massive spiritual importance to the indigenous people of the region, and, when you first see it, it's easy to understand why. There's something moving about seeing this rock stand tall (348 meters) among an otherwise flat landscape.

There are direct flights to Uluru, but we decided instead to fly to Alice Springs and drive. Bryan, Linnea, and I all enjoy road trips. Plus, Bryan and I have a bit of a road trip history; we drove to Florida from Indiana together for spring break during our junior and senior year in college. We hit the road immediately after landing in Alice Springs to ensure a pre-sunset arrival at Uluru. This was partly because we wanted to see Uluru at sunset but mostly because it it is very dangerous to drive the Stuart and Lasseter Highways in the dark. This danger is due to the combination of no lights on the highway and large mammals (kangaroos, camels, cows) that are wont to cross the road at any moment. Four and a half hours, many miles of red dirt, and a few dodged cows later, we arrived at Uluru just in time to enjoy the sunset. They say that you need to see Uluru at both sunrise and sunset when you visit, and I agree with that suggestion. The sunset was worth hustling from Alice Springs to Uluru for.

Our only full day in Uluru began with watching the sunrise, which was arguably better than the previous night's sunset. Energised by a coffee and the presence of Uluru (but mostly the coffee), we drove to the base of the rock to walk around it. Since there isn't much shade available on the base walk, we were happy to start as early as possible to avoid the midday heat. The 10+ km loop took us past numerous sites sacred to the local Anangu people, demonstrating the importance of the rock to those who had been living in the region for at least 10,000 years.

At this point, you might have the following question: "Did you climb the rock?" The short answer is no, I didn't climb the rock. The longer answer is that you are allowed to climb the rock, but the Anangu do not climb it and they discourage visitors from climbing. The Anangu do not want people to climb the rock for two reasons: it disrespects their sacred tradition and they feel responsible for the safety of those who climb the rock. Many injuries and a few deaths have occurred to visitors while climbing, which makes the Anangu very sad. Even though climbing the rock seemed fun, we decided to respect the wishes of the traditional Aboriginal owners of Uluru and stick to the base walk.

If you look closely above at the photo of Uluru at sunrise, you can see a distant rock formation on the left side. This rock formation is Kata Tjuta. Being a lesser-known site than Uluru, I wasn't expecting much from our hike through Kata Tjuta. However, I was pleasantly surprised that this hike took us through gorgeous, lush valleys.

While the day so far was great, the main event was booked for that evening: a sunset camel ride through the Outback with views of both Uluru and Kata Tjuta. This was the highlight of the trip. Riding the camels was fun and surprisingly comfortable, the guides were knowledgeable about the region, and the views were great. Fun fact: Australia has more wild camels than any other country in the world. Like many mammals in Australia, camels do not have any natural predators and are able to proliferate unchecked.

We woke up very early the next day to make time to stop at King's Canyon on our way back to Alice Springs. King's Canyon is another gorgeous place for a hike, but other than the fact that we saw a couple of dingoes as we began our hike there isn't much to say that I haven't already said about our other destinations on this trip. In fact, we realised at this point that we had almost exclusively taken photos of rocks or featuring rocks, and King's Canyon was no different. Over one hundred rock photos in 48 hours means you had a great trip, right?

The drive back to Alice Springs was full of red dirt, roadhouse camel burgers, and seemingly infinite landscapes. Over the course of the trip we drove 1,400 km and covered only a small part of the Northern Territory. Australia is a big place.

One night and one morning in Alice Springs was enough to see a majority of the town. It seemed small to us city-dwellers, but a population of 27,000 means that over 10% of Northern Territory residents call Alice Springs home. While wandering down the main street, we were enchanted by the Outback-style hats in every shop window and on every head so we purchased hats just before heading to the airport. We will fit right in the next time we find ourselves in the Outback.

Great Barrier Reef

Great Barrier Reef

My next trip in April brought me to one of the seven natural wonders of the world: the Great Barrier Reef. Off the coast of Queensland, it's the largest coral reef system in the world and considered the 'world's biggest single structure built by living organisms'. I guess what I'm getting at, which you probably already know, is this: the GBR is a big deal. My friend Bryan joined Linnea and me over Easter weekend to see what the fuss is about.

Bryan, a doctor (!) who is about to begin his residency at Duke, was the first person I met and first friend I made at Notre Dame after arriving at the same time on move-in day and realising that we lived next to each other. I'm still not quite sure how Bryan had enough time off in his fourth year of medical school to come to Australia for a couple of weeks (which was after a couple of weeks of honeymooning with his wife in New Zealand), but I was pleased that he made the trip.

When Bryan and I began discussing where we wanted to visit together, his options were limited to places that Linnea and I had not yet been. Luckily, there were several bucket list-worthy destinations still on our "to visit" list, including the Great Barrier Reef. Considering the recent news about how much of the reef is dying, due mostly to increasing ocean temperatures, as soon as possible seemed like the right time to go.

Linnea and I flew to Cairns (pronounced "cans"), which is in the far north of Queensland, on Good Friday. After dinner and an amble along the esplanade, we relaxed at our hostel where, at long last, we reunited with Bryan. And what a glorious reunion it was! Well, not really. We quickly settled into our 3 bed dorm at the hostel to rest up for the following day's reef expedition. 

After boarding the Silverswift, we split up: Bryan with the scuba certified divers, Linnea with the snorkellers, and me with the non-certified scuba divers. Before we set sail, I decided to pay for the medicated seasickness tablets instead of relying on the free ginger tablets. It was my first time moving swiftly on the high seas, and I didn't know how my body would react. That purchase was a fantastic decision. There were a lot of unhappy, nauseous sailors on the ride out to the reef who regretted not handing over the $4 for medicated tablets. During the hour-long ride out to the reef, I got a crash course in how to scuba dive from my instructor. If you think that spending an hour on a boat learning how to scuba dive doesn't sound like enough training to be able to scuba dive safely alone, you're right. The non-certified divers dived in small groups with an instructor keeping a close eye on us. I felt safe, but that doesn't mean it wasn't scary. It's very difficult to convince your brain that it's okay to breathe normally when you're under 40 feet of ocean, especially when it's your first time using scuba equipment.

I dove twice, each for about 25 minutes. 10 minutes into the first dive, my instructor pointed at a cave on the ocean floor. A few seconds later, out came a gigantic turtle. I could have finished scuba diving then and there and been happy with the experience. Of the rest of my time underwater, half was spent focusing on breathing and equalising the pressure in my ears, and the other half was spent enjoying the reef. I want to describe what seeing the reef is like, but my photos will do a better job than my words will. However, I will say this: it looked and felt like I was on a different planet. From the very unique surroundings to the feeling of weightlessness, scuba diving is the closest to space exploration that I'll ever be. After my two dives were up, I was happy to be done breathing underwater. I had time to snorkel, which also afforded plenty of great views of the reef. In fact, Linnea saw more cool sea creatures than I did in spotting a stingray.

Cairns isn't known for much other than scuba diving, so we spent the next day celebrating Easter with mass in the morning and wine in the afternoon at the park next to the lagoon. Don't let the title "lagoon" fool you into thinking it's something natural. It's a public pool next to the ocean with a man-made beach along its edge.

On our final day in Cairns, we had a frighteningly late flight back to Melbourne because we bought the cheapest tickets we could find. It was at 11:45pm. This meant that we had another full day, but unfortunately I had to go to work after arriving in Melbourne at 3:10am. We took advantage of our last day in far north Queensland by driving up to the Daintree Rainforest, which is the oldest tropical rainforest in the world. On the edge of the Daintree, we took a crocodile tour where we saw crocs ranging from a couple of inches long (tiny!) to a couple of meters (scary!). While driving through the rainforest we saw dozens of 'Cassowary Crossing' signs, but didn't happen upon any cassowaries. If you're not familiar with this endangered creature, it's a giant flightless bird with claws big enough to kill a man. Now that I think about it, I suppose I'm glad that we didn't come across this terrifying beast. After a beautiful drive back to Cairns that included a chance encounter with a field full of wallabies (to Bryan's delight), we began our late trek back to Melbourne where we would get to rest up for our next trip.

Fraser Island

Fraser Island

April ended up being the perfect storm of public holidays and friends visiting. Beginning the weekend of April 1st, I was out of town 4 out of 5 weekends. Exhausting, yes, but I was thrilled to get the chance to visit great destinations with wonderful friends. Exploring Fraser Island, the world's largest all sand island, was adventure number one.

Kelvin was my adventure partner for this trip. He's a medical school student in Texas and had two weeks off for spring break, which he decided to spend in Australia. Kelvin's real claim to fame, however, is not the fact that he will be a doctor in a couple of years. His real claim to fame is that he is a co-founder of MABAS, the Madison Area Beer Appreciation Society. If that sounds vaguely and strangely familiar, it's because I mentioned it in a previous post when another co-founder, Craig, visited. While it may sound a bit high brow, MABAS was a tongue in cheek name for good company and conversation over beers and board games.

We spent a couple days together in Melbourne before departing for Queensland. On the Tuesday that Kelvin was around, Linnea and I brought him to our favourite recent discovery: New Brew Tuesday. Every week, a nearby pub (Forester's) hosts a local brewery. That brewery pours free samples of their beer for attendees while giving a talk about the history of the brewery and specifics about each beer. The event is a lovely slice of beer geekdom that delights veteran MABAS members, such as Kelvin and me, and has lead to new MABAS recruits. Anyway, after Kelvin and I had a bit of fun in Melbourne, we headed interstate.

On the way to the airport, I received a phone call. It was the tour company, Cool Dingo Tours, who we were scheduled to explore Fraser Island with the following day. You may remember that Cyclone Debbie hit Australia around the time that we were traveling and, unfortunately, we were heading in its direction. The cyclone made landfall in the Whitsundays, over 500 miles from Hervey Bay, our intended destination that night. However, the entire Queensland coast south of the Whitsundays was going to be impacted by the cyclone because the low pressure system would head south after reaching continental Australia. This meant torrential rain and likely flooding. Our Thursday tour was cancelled and we were booked on the Friday tour with no guarantee that it would happen. We hastily attempted to change our flights to go somewhere completely different, but it was too last minute to make that happen. We headed to Brisbane and crossed our fingers.

After an evening in Brisbane, we steeled ourselves and drove north. It rained extremely hard all day, but we got lucky and none of the roads on our route were flooded. We arrived in Hervey Bay and went to the beach to meet the storm head on. I'm surprised I didn't fly away:

Even though Hervey Bay and Fraser Island were both battered by the storm on Thursday, our tour began Friday without a hitch. It turns out that an all sand island is the perfect place to be after a big storm - much of coastal Queensland was flooding, but we were fine because you can't flood a sand island. We spent a couple of days driving around the island with Davey from Cool Dingo Tours. I can't recommend them enough. Davey was knowledgeable and endlessly entertaining. Fraser Island is a fascinating place, so I'd like to share a few neat nature (aka neature) facts that I learned during my tour.

- The island formed over hundreds of thousands of years of sand building up on a few large volcanic rocks.

- You'd think that an all sand island can't have much vegetation, and generally you'd be correct. However, Fraser Island is an exception. There are rainforests and eucalyptus and mangrove woodlands. This flora is able to get nutrients from fungus that lives in the sand.

- The dingoes on Fraser Island are the purest dingoes in Australia, meaning there aren't any dogs in their family tree. Dogs aren't allowed on the island to keep it this way. We kept an eye out for dingoes while driving around, but we weren't lucky enough to see any.

- To my surprise, there are lakes on the island! They're called perched lakes. They form when organic matter hardens to create an impermeable layer on top of the sand. Because they're filled with only rainwater, they are very acidic and nothing can live in them. This results in extremely clean and clear water.

That's enough neature facts for now. Ask me about Fraser Island if you want to know more :)

We spent our couple of days on the island driving around, hiking, and getting to know our fellow travelers. A highlight was a joy flight around the island that took off from and landed on the beach. Fun fact: Fraser Island is one of two places in the world where you can do this. The other is a beach in Scotland.

After our couple of days on the island, we drove back to Brisbane to have a wander. We tracked down the best-looking brewery near the city (Green Beacon Brewing) and enjoyed a beer before heading to the airport. Kelvin was off to Cairns and then Sydney while I had to make my way back to Melbourne. I was sad to part ways, but I have a feeling that the powers of MABAS will bring us back together sooner than we think.

New Zealand: Queenstown and Surrounds

New Zealand: Queenstown and Surrounds

New Zealand's South Island. My goodness, is it breathtaking. The scenery is so stunning that I tend to run out of adjectives when describing it. Covered in mountains, lakes, glaciers, and sheep, it surpassed the Swiss and Austrian Alps as the most beautiful place that I've ever been. It's so consistently beautiful, in fact, that I became 'used to' the landscape after being there for a week. In hindsight, it feels like I should be punished for this. A recent review of the photos I took reveals that yes, it's gorgeous everywhere, and yes, I'm crazy to have taken this for granted toward the end of the trip. Everything is so...so...dang, I think I'm already beginning to run out of adjectives. I suppose that means that I need to start showing you photos instead of talking about the terrain.

There are many more neat photos where that comes from, but I'm getting ahead of myself. Let me back up.

In early February, my parents arrived in Melbourne to begin their month-long jaunt through Australia and New Zealand. Linnea and I had a wonderful time showing them around. On the two weekends that they spent in the city, they got to explore laneways, enjoy the local cuisine, and attend a cricket match at the Melbourne Cricket Ground. During the week, they left Melbourne for some outdoorsy adventures along the Great Ocean Road and Phillip Island. After a fun 10 days hosting my parents, Linnea and I said 'see ya soon' instead of 'goodbye.' We would be seeing them in Queenstown 6 days later after they stopped in Sydney and Christchurch for more sightseeing.

Now that you're caught up, I can jump into talking about the trip. Before I do that, here's another photo. Look closely and you might find my parents.

Queenstown

For the first few nights of the trip, we stayed in an Airbnb just outside of Queenstown, hailed by many as the 'adventure capital of the world.' Those who have given this title to Queenstown were right. It's amazing that bungee jumping, mountain biking, skydiving, shark boat rides (Google it if you're unfamiliar), and much more are all easily accessible in a town of just 15,000 people. The glut of adrenaline-inducing activities was not what drew us to Queenstown. Instead, we were there to enjoy the easy access to nature, some of which is just a few minutes from the city.

Okay, that last sentence isn't completely true. While all four of us were excited for hiking in New Zealand, there were a couple of us who were also planning on taking advantage of a particular adventure activity. If you're wondering who might have been planning to do that, let's just say that my parents had gotten their fill of 'adrenaline' after taking a gondola ride to begin a hike on our first full day in Queenstown.

After shaking off the post-gondola jitters (sorry, Mom and Dad...this will be the last time I mention it :) ), we began our hike to the summit of Ben Lomond. What a terrific introduction to New Zealand. It was fairly strenuous and we were all sore for a couple of days after, but the views of Queenstown and the Remarkables in one direction and the Southern Alps in the other made the hard work worth it. The PB&J's that we scarfed down at the summit couldn't have tasted better.

The next day was a more relaxed one that included a wander around the charming Arrowtown and a visit to a local winery. After the previous day's tramp (what Kiwis call a hike), we needed to give our glutes a break. Plus, Linnea and I needed to bide our strength for the adventure activity that I alluded to earlier: SKYDIVING. I put that in all caps because I was terrified. I am afraid of heights and did not enjoy bungee jumping when my friend Miguel convinced me to do it in Austria. Linnea was adamant that we needed to skydive, but I threw every excuse at her to see if I could convince her otherwise because we hadn't booked anything yet. "It's dangerous!" (it's not) "It's too expensive!" (it is) "They won't have any spots left!" (they had plenty) "My mom won't want me to!" (true, but she stayed cool). In the end, not only did I fail to talk Linnea out of skydiving, but somehow she convinced me to jump from 15,000 feet, which is the highest available jump. We booked our tandem jumps for early the next morning.

We arrived at the jump sight through a lot of fog. Of course we weren't allowed to jump until it was clear outside, so we had to wait until the fog lifted. This gave us plenty of time to get our jumpsuits on, meet our tandem diver, and think about the fact that we would soon be jumping out of an airplane. In addition to the jumpsuits and silly looking hats, we got a breathing mask. A breathing mask - what for? you might ask. It turns out that, because we were jumping from higher than 13,000 feet, we were legally required to be given supplemental oxygen. That thought made me even more anxious, but I started to feel better after I met my tandem diver. This was mostly because he has been a professional skydiver for 26 years in New Zealand, the Amazon, and Michigan. He made me feel safe as we got in the plane and started to go up...and up...and up. After what seemed like quite a while, he showed me the altimeter on his wrist and we were only at 8,000 feet. The view was already incredible, but I was happy to see even further as we continued our lazy upward circles, putting on breathing masks at 13,000 feet. I'd like to say this is when it got real for me, but it didn't truly become real until I was falling. I've been in plenty of airplanes and not once considered jumping out. This time felt no different. Until of course, it wasn't. All of a sudden a green light at the back of the airplane turned on, the hatch opened, and the first divers fell out. I wasn't far behind.

It takes a few seconds of free fall to really believe that you're plummeting toward the earth. By the time you've wrapped your head around it, you've reached terminal velocity, which is about 120 mph. It turns out that rocketing at terminal velocity is too much fun to be scared anymore. The free fall was 60 seconds of pure joy. It's a very good thing that I had a tandem jumper because I was having too much fun to think about the parachute. Once the chute is released, I spent about 5 minutes gliding towards the earth. During the gentle descent, I got the chance to drive, which was fun until I spun us around a little too aggressively. I paid for that fun in some nausea later. The landing was smooth and, while I very much enjoyed skydiving, I was happy to be on solid ground and to see that Linnea had made it too. As quickly as I could, I texted my parents to tell them that we had landed safely. They responded that they could now begin enjoying their day.

Te Anau and Milford Sound

Te Anau is where we stayed for the next couple nights. We chose Te Anau not for what you can do in the town, but for how close it is to lovely sightseeing and tramping. Upon arrival, we set out to find beverages and dinner. We came away satisfied, having found happy hour at a bar before tracking down pizza and craft beer. Te Anau is small, but there are a handful of eateries that appeared to be worth trying. Our first morning in town we woke up early to begin driving. We headed to Milford Sound, which is a fiord leading to the ocean that's known for its beautiful waterfalls and tall peaks. Milford Sound isn't easy to get to; there are many one lane bridges (very common in New Zealand) on the way, you have to go through a mountain at one point, and it's nowhere near a town. It's so remote that power lines don't go there. All electricity used by the tour operators and the small number of people that live there must be generated on-site, which is done via hydroelectric power courtesy of the waterfalls. When it comes to lists of things to do near Queenstown, seeing Milford Sound is on nearly every one. After taking a cruise through the sound to the sea, I think it deserves to be on these lists. It's an interesting and unique bit of geography that is unlike anything I've seen before. You may be surprised to learn that the only regret I have is that it wasn't raining during (or immediately before) our cruise. When it rains a lot, thousands of temporary waterfalls cascade down the steep mountainsides.

On the way back to Te Anau from Milford Sound, we made multiple quick stops to enjoy the sights. The highlight on the drive back was on the Te Anau side of the mountain tunnel. Here you can usually spot the mischievous kea, an endangered mountain parrot that is only found in alpine regions of the South Island. I call this bird 'mischievous' because they have been known to steal things from people, including keys and passports. As a side note, Mischievous Kea happens to be the name of a tasty beer brewed in Queenstown that Linnea and I very much enjoyed. The start of the Routeburn Track was the one spot that we intentionally skipped on the way back because we would return the next day.

Routeburn Track

The Routeburn Track was the reason I booked flights to Queenstown. Well, I suppose it wasn't specifically the Routeburn Track. It was learning about New Zealand's Great Walks that inspired me to begin looking at flights, and in August of last year I jumped on a flight sale. The Great Walks are a series of popular multi-day tramps that are very well-maintained by New Zealand's Department of Conservation. Each Great Walk has huts and camping facilities. I chose to camp because it felt more 'hard core' and, quite honestly, I wanted an excuse to sleep in the tent that I bought many months ago and hadn't used yet. Camping means carrying a bunch of extra gear, which leads to some very large and heavy backpacks. Upon seeing me declare my backpack 'ready to go', my mom asked if I was sure I could carry that huge thing through the mountains. In typical defiant son fashion, I told her that I would be fine. I wasn't positive, though. This was my first backpacking trip and that thing was pretty darn heavy.

We drove to the start of the track and were joined for the first few hours of the tramp by my parents. Sunny and clear without being too hot, It was a nearly perfect day. After an hour or so of hiking uphill through alpine forest, we emerged at Key Summit, where we were treated to spectacular views. See for yourself:

Mom and Dad joined us until we stopped for lunch. They said "see you in July", turned around, and tramped back to the car to continue their New Zealand adventure. The following day they dropped off their rental car in favour of a camper van. I don't want to say too much for them about their camper van experience, but I think they were happy to be flying home after 4 nights in the van.

We continued our hike, stopping along the way to admire views or fill up our water bottles in a stream. After a few more hours of hiking, we were very grateful to arrive at the campsite. It turns out that our packs were pretty heavy, mostly because we were carrying a week's worth of clothes for just 2 nights of camping. The campsite was in a beautiful spot near a large glacial lake. Linnea was gutsy enough to take a dip in the very cold water:

We became friends with 2 other couples staying at the campsite that night, the conversation starting when Linnea overheard one of the girls say 'New Hampshire' with a clearly North American accent. One couple was from NH. They had recently quit their jobs to spend 6 months traveling. The other couple was from Missouri and at the end of their two week vacation in New Zealand. It was fun to swap stories over dinner (tuna tacos aka a packet of tuna wrapped in a tortilla) about our travels.

The weather wasn't quite as friendly the next day. It was misty and rainy, which was too bad. That was the day we most wanted good visibility because we would be at the highest elevation on the track. We powered through the hike because there wasn't much to stop and look at, although there was something pretty about how misty the mountains were.

Once we got to our campsite on the second night, the weather was much better. It was done raining, which allowed us to set up our tent, and the fog had lifted, letting us enjoy the view of Routeburn Flats from our campsite. We played cards at the picnic table for a while (gin rummy, if you're wondering what we played), but you can only sit still for so long before the sand flies drive you crazy. We finished the card game inside the tent.

The next morning, we decided to hike back up the mountain a little bit to enjoy the views that the fog had obstructed the day before. We left our heavy backpacks at the campsite and hiking magically became easy. I felt like I was moving faster than I ever had. The views ended up being worth the relatively easy hike, but we didn't have too much time to wander because we had a bus to catch. On the way back down, we hiked and chatted with a middle-aged guy from Seattle (it seemed like everyone on the track was American).

When we got back to Queenstown, we hadn't eaten hot food in a few days. That doesn't sound like a long time, but peanut butter, freeze dried yogurt and granola, trail mix, tortillas, and tuna get old pretty fast. We decided to treat ourselves to Fergburger, Queenstown's seemingly world-famous burger joint. I was very hungry and ordered the largest burger on the menu, which, to my own surprise, I managed to finish in a reasonable amount of time. It's easy to work up an appetite when carrying 30-something pounds on your back.

We crashed early at the hostel that night. The next day, we met up with Linnea's friend Linnea (I know, I had never been with 2 Linneas at the same time either) and enjoyed a beverage at our favourite spots in Queenstown, Perky's floating bar (it's on a boat!) and the town square on the water (no open container laws). Having such a lovely, relaxing last day in Queenstown made me sad to leave. I think Queenstown was sad to see us leave, or at least it wanted to make sure we remembered how beautiful it is, because it treated us to this sunset before we left for Melbourne:

Dear New Zealand,

I'll be back.

-Ben

Melbourne to Sydney Coastal Drive

Melbourne to Sydney Coastal Drive

December. Christmas. New Year's. As a born and raised Midwesterner, these events evoke cold images. Icicles hanging from a rooftop, a layer of snow on an evergreen, carving circles on a frozen pond - all pleasant images, but all undeniably cold. Being residents of the Southern Hemisphere, of course this is not the case for Australians. As you are likely aware, it's hot here in December. What I have a hard time getting over is the stark contrast between what Australians and Americans associate with this time of year. Many people barbecue on Christmas Eve, hit the beach on Christmas, and camp on New Year's Eve. Of course it makes sense to take advantage of the nice weather but something about it feels...wrong. At least that's what I thought until Linnea and I rented a camper van and spent 8 days camping our way along the coast from Melbourne to Sydney. It turns out that enjoying what I traditionally think of as "summer" activities in December is just as fun as doing them in July.

Day 1: Melbourne -> Wilson's Prom

Road trip time. We packed everything we needed into the camper van (clothes, food, books, beer) on Christmas Eve and headed southwest. "Southwest, Ben? Sydney is north. Are you sure you know where you're going?" you might ask. My response would be "Well, no, I don't really know where I'm going. South is the right way to begin though because my first destination is Wilson's Prom, which is the southernmost point of continental Australia." When I say that I don't know where I'm going, there is some truth to that. For this trip, Linnea and I had no agenda or itinerary. The only things set in stone were that we would leave Melbourne on Christmas Eve and arrive in Sydney on New Year's Eve. Everything in between would be figured out on the fly. I have never been on a trip with nothing planned - I am used to at least having accommodation booked. Frankly, I was nervous. I didn't know how easy it would be to find a place to park the van every night. Instead of making you wait to find out if my anxiety was warranted, I'll spoil it for you now: finding a place to sleep every night was easy. Linnea found an app called WikiCamps Australia that gave us a map of places to stay, including a list of amenities and ratings for each location. Instead of being a negative thing, not having accommodation booked gave us a lot of flexibility that we wouldn't have otherwise had.

Anyway, we headed to Wilson's Prom. Prom is short for promontory, which is a raised mass of land that projects into a lowland or lower body of water according to Wikipedia. After reading that definition, I'm not sure what makes it different from a peninsula, but I digress. Wilson's Prom is a beautiful national park just a few hours from Melbourne. Its excellent walking tracks and variety of terrain make it a favourite destination for Melburnians. We arrived at the park in the afternoon with our fingers crossed that they would still have campsites available. Lucky for us, there were plenty of spots. This would be the first and only time on the trip that a national park would have space for us. As soon as Boxing Day (day after Christmas) comes around, Australians flock to national parks to spend the week camping. After parking the van, we got our bearings by going for a hike to Squeaky Beach. The name of this beach is meant to be taken literally - if you stomp your feet while walking in the sand, it squeaks. We encountered several squeaky beaches throughout the trip, and this phenomenon provided more entertainment than I'd like to admit. After the hike and a camp stove dinner of corn and black bean quesadillas, we figured out how to put the van in sleeping mode and called it a successful first day of the trip.

Day 2: Wilson's Prom -> Ninety Mile Beach

We decided that we would spend one night at Wilson's Prom to make sure we kept making progress along the coast. Knowing this, we planned an ambitious day of hiking. After eggs and toast on the camp stove, we packed up our things and drove to Telegraph Saddle, which is the hub for many of the big hikes on the prom. We hiked to and from Sealers Cove, which is a beautiful hike; to get there, we walked through rainforests, over marshes, and across rivers. We were greeted at the extremely secluded cove by a veil of mist covering the ocean, which was eerie and pretty. After enjoying the view from the cove and scarfing the sandwiches we had packed, we headed back the way we came. Upon completion of this 20km hike on a hot day, we were tired and sweaty. However, Mount Oberon was staring down at us, daring to be climbed. After a snack break, we made our way to the top of the mountain. The hike itself is uphill the whole time and fairly uninteresting, but the view from the top was worth it. After taking advantage of the showers at the campgrounds (camping road trip tip: shower when you can), we left the prom. It was a short but sweet visit and I'd love to be back to do an overnight backpacking trip.

As we began driving, we realised that it was Christmas. I don't mind the simplicity of camping food, but it felt like we should treat ourselves to some sort of Christmas dinner. The trouble was that there weren't many towns where we were driving and everything was closed. That is, until we reached Sale. Driving down the main street, our eyes peeled for signs of life, we spotted one Open sign on an Indian restaurant. Not your traditional Christmas dinner, but we were happy to find somewhere that was open. Plus, I really like Indian food; I have a hard time turning down fresh naan and chicken tikka masala.

We found a free campsite on Ninety Mile Beach (supposedly the longest beach in Australia) but not until after it was dark. That was the last time we would do that - it's too difficult to read signs to figure out where you're going and you often have to avoid kangaroos in the road because they are most active at dusk.

Day 3: Ninety Mile Beach -> south of Eden

We intended to hang out at the beach for a few hours in the morning, but the flies were unbearable. We were bothered by bugs fairly consistently throughout the trip, but they were normally manageable. Here, however, they swarmed our faces by the dozen. As soon as we finished breakfast, we were out of there and on our way to Lakes Entrance. I was hoping to relax a bit that morning and didn't want to be in the car, but the audiobook we had been listening to was starting to get interesting. We arrived in Lakes Entrance to some gorgeous views of the area before descending to sea level. It's an interesting spot because it's where the Gippsland Lakes meet the ocean. There are several brackish straits easily accessible for water activities, making it a popular holiday destination. We enjoyed a bit of reading on the beach and a lunch of PB&J's (never too old for those) before heading to a local tourist winery. Wyanga Park Winery is a lovely little spot on a river. Since it was Boxing Day, we had the place to ourselves, which was great because it gave us the chance to ask the wine tasting pourer plenty of questions about the winery. The wine was tasty and the tasting was free, so we bought a bottle of sauvignon blanc (savvy b) for future consumption.

That afternoon we made good driving progress before arriving at Scrubby Creek Rest Area. We made it to New South Wales! This rest stop ended up being my favourite for the whole trip. It was easy to get to but far enough away from the highway to feel like proper camping. We celebrated our arrival in a new state with angel hair pasta (cooks so fast!) on the camp stove.

Day 4: south of Eden -> outside Canberra

Eden, Australia. Sounds pretty idyllic, eh? At first glance, it seemed like another nice seaside town. Sure, you can go whale watching, but it wasn't in season when we were there. However, our opinion of Eden changed dramatically when we went to the killer whale museum. It may sound silly, but it was fascinating. When you walk in you are greeted by a skeleton of a killer whale. This by itself isn't very interesting; any museum named after a certain animal had better have that animal on display. What was interesting was the story behind the whale - Old Tom wasn't an ordinary killer whale. He was the leader of a pod of killer whales that helped the whalers working in Twofold Bay, where Eden is. He and his killer whale friends would herd baleen whales into the bay and help the men kill these larger whales. In exchange for this delivery, the killer whales got to eat the lips and tongue of the larger whales. Yes, it is a strange partnership, but it made for a compelling story.

We had been debating going to Canberra, the capitol of Australia, which was a couple of hours out of the way. Since it was a rainy and dreary day on the coast, we were encouraged to do more driving than we would have otherwise done. Canberra it was. And if you're surprised that Canberra is the capitol instead of Melbourne or Sydney, you wouldn't be the first. There was a big fight in the 19th century about who would be the capitol, and neither Melbourne nor Sydney, the two largest cities in Australia then and now, would budge. So they picked a spot in between and built a capitol city from scratch. We started to find a driving groove and were engrossed in the audiobook when we chanced upon a sign pointing toward my weakness: nanobrewery - next left! I was driving and instincts took over. It ended up being a popular stop for all campers because the brewery happened to have just shucked their day's worth of oysters 20 minutes before our arrival, which is music to Linnea's ears. Having the flexibility to be spontaneous on a trip is a wonderful thing.

After hitting the road again, I nearly made a terrible mistake. We were driving through a small town as we were leaving the coast and Linnea asked, "How are we doing on gas?" "We're fine," I responded, not realising that we were about to spend the next couple of hours in a gasoline-less wasteland that locals refer to as "mountains." We thought for sure that we were going to run out of gas on the way up a mountain road consisting of steep inclines and hairpin turns. We made it through the mountains on fumes and I learned a valuable lesson: your girlfriend is always right if she thinks you should get gas.

Anyway, we made it Canberra in time to go into Parliament and get a free tour. It was neat to enter the Senate and House chambers and learn more about the Australian political system. It seemed like there were a few other buildings and museums worth seeing in town, but we arrived too late in the day to see much else. We wandered around the city for a while and it was spooky how empty it was. Parliament wasn't in session and neither were the universities, so the population was much lower than normal. I am glad to have swung through Canberra and also glad to have not gone on a Canberra-specific trip as it doesn't seem like there is much in the city that would interest me. Once we had our fill, we got on the highway and drove until we found a rest stop.

Day 5: outside Canberra -> Nowra

Sharks are cool until you see them in real life. And when I say real life, I don't mean at your local aquarium or Sea World. I mean at the beach. At the beach 30 feet from shore in the water where your girlfriend was swimming just 15 minutes ago. After leaving the Australian Capitol Territory, where Canberra is located, we headed for Jervis Bay. We enjoyed brunch in Huskisson before venturing to Hyams Beach, which boasts some of the whitest sands in Australia. Our Lonely Planet book neglected to mention that there are a pair of sharks that can be seen patrolling the beach. Luckily everyone got out of the water in plenty of time because people had seen the sharks, but it was still a bit spooky how close they were.

This day ended up being a "rest day," which means we didn't do much driving. We sat on the beach reading books for a few hours before beginning the search for a place to stay. We tracked down a caravan park in Nowra that had a grassy field where we could park for the night. The best part: it had showers! Not that you need to know this detail, but I hadn't showered since Wilson's Prom (day 2). I was very pleased after the shower. At least I was pleased until we realised that the Wyanga Park wine we had been saving required a corkscrew to open. We didn't have one. Sound the alarm. I ran from group to group and struck out a dozen times before I found campers with a corkscrew. Crisis averted. It was worth the difficulty to open the wine because it turned out to be delicious. Plus, I met a middle aged French couple who donated their card table and camping chairs to us because they were flying back to France the next day. Either that, or they stole someone else's table and chairs and gave them to us because they thought I was handsome. Their reason for giving up the table and chairs will forever be lost in translation.

Day 6: Nowra -> Blue Mountains

Waking up and being able to take a shower - how glorious. 

We headed north to Wollongong in the morning to have a wander around the beach and lighthouse. After a nice walk and a pint at the local brewery, we grabbed lunch and headed to the main destination for the day: Royal National Park. We had seen cool-looking photos of the "figure eight pools" online; we wanted to see them for ourselves. Since they're only safely accessible at low tide, we were on the most strict schedule of the trip. It was a steamy, hot day, and the hike was going to be fairly rocky, so we began preparing accordingly upon arriving at the park. Shorts, comfortable t-shirt, hiking shoes, sunscreen. We didn't have to walk far from the car park to realise that we may have been the most prepared people there. We saw women in heels, guys in jeans, and way too many long sleeved shirts for such a hot day. I'm convinced that many of these fellow hikers saw the figure eight pools on Instagram and showed up hoping they could snap a selfie without breaking a sweat.

After a sweaty descent through the rain forest, a stroll across the beach, and a bit of scrambling over rocks, we found the famous pools. They are nearly perfectly circular rock pools that contain all sorts of sea greenery. There is one in the shape of a figure eight, but so many people have jumped in it that the water is gross from sunscreen and whatever else people bring with them when they jump into a rock pool with their GoPro. I haven't been able to find out much about these rock pools, but I'd be fascinated to understand what caused them to form because they were unlike anything I've seen before.

The way back on this hike was uphill nearly the whole way, so we were pleased to get back to the just-powerful-enough air conditioning in the camper van. We began driving and had a harder time finding a free campsite because we were pretty close to Sydney. Our plan was to hike in the Blue Mountains the next day - we made it all the way there before we were able to find somewhere free to stay. It turned out to be a great spot, though. Plenty of space and showers!

Day 7: Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains is a mountain range that's surprisingly close to Sydney. Depending where in the range you'd like to go, it's an hour or two by car from the city, making it a favourite weekend getaway for Sydneysiders. It derives its name from the bluish haze that sits above the dense eucalyptus forests throughout the region, which is caused by finely-dispersed oil droplets in the air that come from the eucalyptus leaves. It's a beautiful place - or so we had read. After a lovely, big breakfast in a cute mountain town whose name I can't remember, we sought out that beauty to see for ourselves. We hiked the National Pass Trail, which took us into and out of a gorge. There were many excellent views, and the hike was challenging enough to keep the crowds away. Aside from enjoying longer hikes simply because I enjoy hiking, I've noticed that longer hikes are nice because the larger groups tend to avoid them. This means less time spent stepping to the side of the trail to let others pass, which is a plus. Anyway, the National Pass Trail was excellent. We had plenty of daylight left, so we decided to go for another hike, which may have been a mistake. After a lot of hiking the previous day and starting today off with a relatively strenuous hike, our dogs were barking and could use a break. It would've made more sense to do something more relaxing for the afternoon, but, as they say, hindsight is 20/20. The end of our full day in the Blue Mountains and last day in the camper van had us camping in the same spot as the night before. We arrived early enough to play plenty of gin rummy (our card game of choice for the trip) and make some delicious tuna tacos.

Day 8: Blue Mountains -> Sydney

Goodbye camper van lifestyle, hello Airbnb. We dropped off the van and took an Uber to our Airbnb (there's a sentence that wouldn't have made any sense just a few years ago). After allowing for a little bit of relaxing, we hustled off to a park to stake our claim on a spot for the New Year's Eve fireworks. As you can imagine, getting spots is very competitive. There are many ticketed events that cost hundreds of dollars to be on the shore of a harbour or more to be at a fancy hotel or restaurant. We opted to go the free route and chose Yaranabbe Park, which was a good spot for firework viewing without being overly crowded. We arrived at 4:30 for the midnight show, but we came prepared. We had plenty of snacks (no alocohol allowed! probably for the best when waiting nearly 8 hours), books, and games at our disposal, and we ended up making friends with the fellow Melburnians sitting next to us. The fireworks were excellent and the harbour bridge looked incredible. Sydney's fireworks weren't one of the reasons that we chose to be in Sydney for New Year's Eve, but we were glad to have seen them and it was fun knowing we were one of the first major cities in the world to celebrate the new year.

Days 9 and 10: Sydney

I've done Sydney and blogged about it before, and I don't have a ton to add after my third trip. I did enjoy going to a show at the Sydney Opera House for the first time - we saw a Beatles orchestra show. Otherwise, Sydney was its usual sunny self, full of fun places to explore on foot.

Wow. This post ended up being longer than I expected. If you made it this far, good on ya. Overall, the camper van road trip along the coast to Sydney was great. There are certainly discomforts that you have to put up with when on the road in a camper van, but they're no problem. I really enjoyed the sense of adventure and freedom that the van gave us. I would be surprised if we don't do another camper van trip sometime soon.

Thailand

Thailand

 

Sawasdee ka!

(if you guessed that that means hello in Thai, you are correct)

I've been in Australia for 8 months (whoa!) and I finally made it to Asia. It was worth the wait. Linnea and I had a great time island hopping in Southern Thailand. The food was good, the scenery was beautiful, and there were outdoor adventures aplenty. It wasn't all sunshine and rainbows as our trip included doses of Thai tummy, Dengue fever, sunburn, and jet lag. There is a silver lining to the nearly inevitable unplanned hardships of a trip in another country: they often make for a better story. I'm going to take you day-by-day on our trip with us and fill you in on the good and the bad of our 9 days in Krabi province.

Before starting, I'll fill you in on a few basics. Phuket is pronounced poo-ket. It's a rainforest-covered island in the southern part of Thailand that's outlined with beautiful beaches on the Andaman Sea. It's further from Melbourne than you would expect; a direct flight takes close to 9 hours. If you're wondering how we decided what to do during our trip, we leaned heavily on two Lonely Planet books, Pocket Phuket and Thailand's Islands and Beaches, that I picked up on Gumtree (Australia's Craigslist). This was the first trip that I depended on guidebooks and they proved immeasurably useful. I will be traveling with them again in the future.

Day 1: First Day in Phuket

The night before we were supposed to leave for our trip, we got an email from the budget airline (Jetstar) that we were taking to get to Thailand letting us know that our flight was delayed by 11 hours. Instead of arriving at 8pm on Friday night, we arrived at 7am on Saturday morning. This meant that we ended up having to sleep on the plane, which is never an ideal start to a trip. Oh well. That's what Thai iced coffees are for. If you've never had a Thai iced coffee, order one as soon as possible. It's espresso, sweetened condensed milk, and ice. If that doesn't wake you up, I don't know what will. Plus, the sweetened condensed milk means it tastes like candy. Delicious.

Upon arrival, we needed cash because many things are cash only. Due to a conversion rate that makes mental math difficult (currently 1 USD = 35.6 Thai Baht), we were rich! Or so we thought. We each took out 5,000 THB; that many zeroes in a number makes it seem really big, but it is only ~$140USD. Throughout the trip, we would find out that 5,000 THB goes a long way. In fact, our first lunch in Thailand (2 beers, 2 mains) was under 300 Baht. That's under 9 US dollars!

We stayed in Phuket Town our first couple of nights, which is the oldest part of the island. The architecture is Sino-Portuguese, meaning it combines architectural elements from eastern and western cultures. It makes wandering around the city very enjoyable, which is what we did after getting settled into our hotel (The Rommanee Classic Guesthouse, highly recommended). After getting food and a feel for the city, we had to make our way to Patong, where we had booked a cooking class and a show. Patong is party central on Phuket Island and is teeming with people who want you to participate in the debauchery that they are selling, including entry to the infamous "ping pong shows." We weren't there to party - we wanted to learn to cook. At the cooking school (Pum Thai Cooking School) we learned how to make gaeng kheo wan gai (green curry with chicken), tom kha gai (chicken in coconut milk soup), and tom yum goong (hot and sour prawn soup). All were tasty and we were sent home with a Thai cookbook to try it on our own at home. After dinner, we made our way to the Simon Caberet to finish our night with an hour of ladyboys singing and dancing. Very entertaining.

Day 2: Motorbiking across Phuket

If you haven't been to Southeast Asia, you may not be aware that there are motorbikes everywhere. There are so many people riding them and it seems dangerous at first. Some of them are daredevils, driving quite recklessly, but the majority are taking their time to get to their destination safely. At least that's what I told myself when we rented our first motorbike.

We spend our second day in Thailand bombing around the island on a motorbike. I had ridden mopeds in my neighborhood growing up and recently rented a motorbike in New Zealand to do some exploring, but it's much different to be riding one in traffic. It's also different to have someone else occupying the "back seat" of the bike, but it's a positive difference. Linnea in the back acted as a second pair of eyes and a navigator, which allowed me to focus on driving. Once we got a hang of driving and navigating, tooling around on the motorbike was a ton of fun. It gave us an inexpensive way to see whatever we wanted for as long as we desired. If you're in a country with a lot of motorbikers and you're comfortable driving one, I would say go for it. Just stay all the way to the left (yes, they drive on the left in Thailand), wear eye protection, and don't drink alcohol.

We got to tick a few things off with the freedom of a bike. We saw Big Buddha, which is an aptly-named gigantic statue of Buddha that can be seen from much of Phuket island. Like all religious places in Thailand, it is rude to show too much skin (no bare shoulders, shorts must be down to knees at least) at Big Buddha. The more touristy places will offer sarongs for people to use to cover up, but you need to be prepared if visiting somewhere sacred, especially on a hot day. That reminds me of another Thailand etiquette tip: there are a lot of places where it is rude to wear shoes, including in homes, hotels, and family-run businesses. Anyway, at Big Buddha, we did what you do at huge statues: you take a selfie.

Another stop on our motorbike trip was an elephant sanctuary. We rode an elephant. Not that I didn't already know it, but they are HUGE. I'm fairly confident that the elephant we rode didn't notice that we were there.

Days 3 & 4: Ko Phi Phi

Time to head to our first island! While technically Phuket is an island, it's big enough that it doesn't feel like it. Ko Phi Phi, or the Phi Phi Islands (pronounced 'pee pee,' unfortunately), are a group of islands just over an hour ferry ride from Phuket. When researching Phi Phi, the two words that came up most frequently were hedonistic and beautiful. Correct on both counts. After arriving via ferry, we weaved our way through the town to make our way to the hostel (Phi Phi Ingphu Viewpoint, not recommended). On our way, we saw bar after bar advertising drink specials, beer pong nights, and something called a "bucket." We would later learn that "bucket" is not a misnomer. It's a small plastic bucket like a child might use to build sand castles. Instead of containing water and sand, however, it is filled to the brim with a noxious-seeming mixture of cheap liquor and sugary drink. We did not participate in the consumption of any buckets, but we certainly enjoyed watching people muster the courage to finish theirs while wandering the streets.

We weren't on Phi Phi to practice hedonism; we wanted to enjoy the beauty of the islands. So, of course, we got a foot massage. I had never had a massage before and my feet are very ticklish, so I wasn't hopeful that I was going to enjoy the experience. I have beat my feet up quite a bit, though, through running and playing basketball, so I figured it was worth a shot. It turns out that a foot massage is equal parts painful and relaxing. I did not enjoy it. One moment something would feel really good, then the next my masseuse would do something that either hurt quite a bit or put me on the verge of a foot cramp (which, if you haven't experienced one, is agony). I was asked me a dozen times if I was okay by both Linnea and my masseuse, and I responded with a yes through gritted teeth every time. Each time I looked at Linnea she inexplicably seemed to be enjoying herself. Maybe it's just a "me thing" but I don't understand foot massages...

Let's get back to enjoying the beauty of the islands. When we arrived on Phi Phi we booked spots on an all-day tour of the surrounding islands on a longtail boat. We climbed aboard with 20 others assigned to be our friends for the day. The other folks on the boat turned out to be from all over the world: Hungary, France, Spain, the UK, and Australia. Several languages were being spoken on the boat, but luckily for us everyone spoke English when communicating with someone who they didn't come with. However, we weren't on the boat to chat up our co-seafarers. We were there to swim, snorkel, and (most importantly) see monkeys, all of which we got to do. After spending a full day looking at them, I can confidently say that the Phi Phi Islands are stunning. The water is a lovely colour somewhere in between blue and green and clear enough to see the bottom 10 meters down. The islands themselves have craggy limestone cliffs dotted with greenery lining all sides, with the only break in the cliffs being absolutely bodacious beaches. Spending the day on the water and in the sun was exhausting, but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again to get the chance to enjoy the scenery again.

We did one more notable thing on Ko Phi Phi: we had a bunch of tiny fish eat the dead skin off our feet. Yes, it sounds weird and I agree that the claim that this "improves circulation" seems gimmicky. Health benefits or not, it was way more fun than I expected. Those fish really get after your feet and legs. Immediately upon putting my feet in the tank, they started nibbling away and I began laughing. It felt funny and tickled enough that I thought I might not stop laughing the whole time we were there. I was able to calm down, but never stopped enjoying the "doctor fish." Highly recommended.

Day 6: Ko Lanta

We only spent one night on Ko Lanta, but I would have loved to spend more. It felt less touristy and more chilled out than Ko Phi Phi, which was a very nice change of pace. We also had air conditioning (Thailand tip: always get a place with air conditioning if you want to get decent sleep) at our place (Luna Sea, highly recommended) so we were able to get a bit of rest. We again rented a motorbike and cruised along the coast until we found a beach that we liked. I enjoyed a beer while reading my book and watching the sunset and Linnea got a massage next to the beach. Lovely!

We did learn one important lesson during our time on Ko Lanta: don't motorbike home in the dark outside of a city. We did that, not realising how little light there would be. I spent the whole ride home white-knuckling the handlebars of the bike while riding slowly. We will not make that mistake again.

Days 7 & 8: Tonsai Beach

Tonsai Beach was our last destination before having to head back to Phuket Island. It was also the most remote, as it cannot be reached by car. It's on the mainland but surrounded by cliffs, so the only way to get to Tonsai Beach is by boat. We had read that Tonsai Beach is hippie central, and our experience confirmed that. At one point, we saw a group of girls approach an employee at our hostel (Chillout Bungalows, not recommended) and give him money. He disappeared for a few minutes and then returned to give them a joint. Weed is not legal in Thailand, so the hostels and bars in Tonsai Beach have become drug dealers on top of the other services they offer.

As I'm writing this, I'm realising that this trip was filled with spectacular sunsets. They of course make good photographs, but the photograph never seems to quite capture what it looked like in person. I say this because the best sunset of the trip was on Tonsai beach. On our first evening there, we relaxed at a bar on the beach with a few beers and were treated to a gorgeous sunset. To make it even better, a guy base jumped from a cliff right above us and landed safely on the beach as the sun dipped into the ocean.

Tonsai Beach is not only known for being a hippie haven. It's more well-known for being a great place to rock climb, so we booked a half day of climbing with a local guide. Let me get this out of the way before going into more detail about climbing: Linnea is a better climber than me. It's not even close. She kicked my butt out there. Luckily, she was nice enough to show me the ropes (get it...ropes...because we're climbing...) because this was the first time I had ever rock climbed outdoors. Most of my previous experience was at a climbing gym in Madison with my monkey of a former roommate, Jared (who, coincidentally, was in Tonsai Beach a few months before us). After getting over my initial fear, I had a great time climbing. The limestone made for good holds and our guide made me feel comfortable. My climbing form is not very good, so I tired myself out pretty quick, but I would love to climb outdoors again the next time I have a chance.

Climbing wasn't the only available outdoor activity. There were nearly always kayakers paddling around the bay and to the nearby rock formations. Renting a kayak seemed like an excellent way to spend the morning before we had to get on a ferry back to Phuket Island, and it turned out to be very scenic.

While beautiful, this kayaking trip was also proof that we may need to change our accommodation in Phuket that night. Linnea had begun to feel pretty sick and didn't have the energy to kayak, which is something that she normally likes to do. She had gotten quite a few mosquito bites right when we arrived on Tonsai Beach, which is something that you want to avoid when in Thailand because they can carry diseases. When she realised how sick she was feeling, we decided that she had contracted Dengue fever. It's nothing to be alarmed about if the symptoms aren't bad, but you should definitely get some rest to let your body fight the virus. Couple her sickness with the fact that we hadn't showered in a couple of days (the bathroom in our hostel was disgusting) and hadn't been sleeping well (no air conditioning in a hot, humid climate makes for bad sleeping conditions) and we decided we'd be much happier not staying in a cheap place for our last night in Thailand.

Day 9: Resort in Phuket

It turns out that, just like the US Dollar, the Marriott point goes far in Thailand. We found a resort (Nai Yang Beach Resort) that costs a very reasonable number of points (35,000 per night, if you're wondering) and spent our last night there. What a dramatic change it was to be at a resort. In the morning, we had checked out of a hostel where taking a shower would have made you less clean. In the evening, we checked into a place where we were given a soothing tea upon arrival and were delivered to our room using a golf cart. We even had our own cabana! It was a welcome change after we weren't feeling great. We spent our last day sitting by the beach and pool being waited on at the resort, which was a relaxing end to an otherwise action-packed trip.

Mac in Melbourne

Mac in Melbourne

My brother Mac recently visited me in Melbourne. For those of you who don't know him, he's a senior in college at Iowa State University (go Cyclones!) and a cool dude (don't tell him I said that). He recently caught the travel bug while studying abroad in Cork, Ireland and couldn't say no to a good deal on a flight to Melbourne when he found it. He visited during his Thanksgiving break but, since he had to get back for school, he only got to be in Australia for 9 days. I'd like to think that we made the most of this time.

Any trip to Australia isn't complete without a kangaroo sighting. As an Australian resident, I know a place or two where kangaroos can be seen. In fact, I know where you can feed them, pet them, and even box them (just kidding, don't box them. You'll lose). On Mac's first weekend in Australia, I went with Mac and Linnea to Phillip Island, home of my local go-to wildlife park (by go-to, I mean I had been there once before). We got to see all sorts of Australian wildlife, including echidnas, dingoes, wallabies, emus (my archenemy), koalas, and kangaroos. If you're wondering why emus are my archenemy, look them up. They're ugly and terrifying. They have no fear of humans and aren't afraid to stick their big beaks wherever they please, including in your face. Anyway, emus weren't the point. We were looking for kangaroos! And kangaroos we found. You name it, we saw it: huge male kangaroos with barrel chests, female kangaroos with tiny joeys in their pouch, adolescent joeys living in their mom's pouch part-time. We spent quite a bit of time feeding them and hanging out with them.

When it comes to Phillip Island, the most famous attraction is the penguin parade. Yes, it's as adorable as it sounds. Phillip Island is home to the smallest penguins in the world (about 12 inches tall). They spend some of their days fishing in the ocean. When they need to return to their homes on shore, they wait until dusk so predators won't be able to see them. This leads to groups of tiny penguins scurrying across the beach to their homes, which is where you get to see them during the 'penguin parade.' We spent our evening on Phillip Island enjoying watching the penguins before we had to drive back to Melbourne.

On the weeknights while Mac was in town, he saw a bit of what the day-to-day looks like living in Melbourne. He visited me at my office and he joined me, Linnea, and a few friends for the Tuesday night trivia at the local pub. However, not everything we did was a part of the routine. He was visiting during Thanksgiving so we had to celebrate! Mac and Linnea cooked up a delicious Thanksgiving meal on a Monday night. We brought the projector into the kitchen so that we could stream the Vikings game while feasting because Thanksgiving without football seems incomplete. Alex, my roommate, joined us and in doing so experienced his first Thanksgiving dinner. I have already turned him into a Vikings fan and now he's a Thanksgiving fan as well. The Vikings won, which is no surprise considering they have won every game that Alex has watched with me.

On Thanksgiving, Mac and I flew to Sydney for a long weekend before he had to head back to the US. We stayed at an Airbnb in Newtown, which is a hip suburb just a few train stops away from the CBD. Our hosts were an absolutely lovely French couple in their late thirties. One morning when Mac and i were getting ready for the day's adventures, we were greeted by a singsong voice with a French accent that said "Good morning! I am a little hungover today!" I had never heard someone be so cheery about a hangover.

Upon arrival in Sydney, we didn't have any plans, which is how Mac likes to travel. I had plans though. Actually, I just had plan, meaning there was one thing we were going to do and I wasn't telling Mac until we did it. As a birthday/Christmas present to Mac, I bought tickets for the two of us to climb the Sydney Harbour Bridge. He had no idea that it was happening. On our first morning, I mentioned that we had to be in a specific area at a specific time. Mac asked why and I said that I couldn't tell him. After a brief moment of annoyance, Mac realized that it was a surprise so he played along. As we headed to the CBD and began walking to our destination, I could see the wheels spinning in Mac's head trying to figure out what we were doing. He would later tell me that he thought I had gotten us tickets to a show at the Sydney Opera House, so the surprise stayed a surprise. Once we arrived at the BridgeClimb doors, a look of realization and excitement came over him as he figured out what we were going to do. Climbing the bridge, which included stops for photos and learning about a history of the bridge, took about 3 hours. The weather was great and the views were spectacular, making for a great BridgeClimb experience. 

We spent the rest of our time in Sydney walking around and enjoying tasty food and the occasional beverage. It was a lovely weekend exploring Sydney with Mac and fun to have him in Australia, even if it was a short trip.

McLaren Vale

McLaren Vale

Pop quiz time: what's the capital of South Australia?

If you answered Adelaide, you are correct. If you answered that you didn't know there was a state called South Australia, I'm sure you aren't alone. After spending a long weekend in South Australia, it's a shame that so few people know that it exists, although I imagine the residents would like to keep it that way to allow it to maintain it's small-town charm and natural beauty.

Linnea and I recently flew into Adelaide on a Friday morning for a long weekend. Adelaide itself is a fairly small city without much for tourists, so we didn't spend much time there. Once we made a very important pit stop at my favourite Australian brewery (Pirate Life), which is located in Adelaide, we headed toward our home for the weekend: McLaren Vale, a wine region ~45 minutes from Adelaide. McLaren Vale is widely-regarded as one of the top wine regions in Australia. This is a fact that may be a bit lost on Linnea and me because we aren't exactly wine experts, but we were excited nonetheless. We were also excited for our accommodation, which we found on Airbnb. We stayed at a shearing shed that had been converted into a small cabin with modern amenities while maintaining an old school, rustic charm on the property of winery owners. See below for a couple of pictures of the place; in the photo on the top you can see the view of the front door of the shed, including the vineyard (far right side of the photo), and in the photo on the bottom you can see what the interior looks like.

Being on the property of winery owners, we had access to things that we don't usually have access to as city-dwellers. In the mornings, we went to the chicken coop and grabbed a few freshly-laid eggs to be eaten for breakfast. In the evenings, we went for a walk to the top of a hill on the property to enjoy the view of the sun setting across the rolling hills and over the ocean. This walk felt especially Australian when we caught a glimpse of two kangaroos hopping through the tall grass over the hill, frightened by our presence.

Because McLaren Vale is a wine region, there were a lot of wine-centric activities on our agenda. However, wine wasn't the only thing that we did. We wandered through a Saturday morning farmer's market, enjoyed a coffee at a local coffee roaster, and went for a long walk on the beach. Not that I wasn't already aware of it, but this beach walk confirmed that Minnesotan skin does not do well in Australian sun. We spent about 2 hours on the beach on a mostly sunny day and my neck got sunburned. I won't forget sunscreen (or "sun cream" as Aussies call it) next time.

While not everything we chose to do was guided by wine, it was difficult to get away from it (not that we wanted to). At dinner one night, a friendly waiter who I had chatted with earlier in the night offered me a “symbol of good international relations.” When I looked confused about this offer, he explained that he meant that he wanted to give Linnea and me a free glass of wine. We happily allowed him to top up our glasses. This was the finishing touch on one of my favourite dinner experiences in memory. We arrived at Russell’s Pizza in Wilunga without a booking on a Friday night at dinner time. At first glance, this was a mistake because the place was packed. However, they had a fire outside and it was the perfect kind of chilly night where sitting around a fire feels just right. We ended up spending hours sitting by the fire, eating pizza, drinking wine, and chatting with the couple who sat down next to us. They were locals and sitting next to them demonstrated that Adelaide, while being a capital city, is a small town at heart. Multiple times they stopped mid-conversation to say hello to someone walking past who they knew from school or growing up. This small-town feeling was compounded by the fact that we saw them the next morning out for a stroll at the farmer’s market.

Throughout the trip, we visited 6 wineries: Dogridge, Gemtree, Alpha Box & Dice, d’Arenberg, Hugo, and Penny’s Hill. They all made delicious wine and had their own unique approach to winemaking. They all came off as passionate about what they were doing and were happy to answer any questions (however elementary they may have been) that I had.  Going into the trip, I thought that some of the wineries would feel more like Anheiser Busch than Ale Asylum, but that wasn’t the case at all; I enjoyed that these wineries felt like the small, family-run businesses that they are instead of feeling like corporations. In fact, visiting Alpha Box & Dice felt like a visit to a craft brewery. I guess what I’m getting at is this: the wineries in McLaren Vale are run and staffed by friendly, regular people instead of wine snobs. They just happen to really, really like wine.

I didn't just learn how to enjoy (which isn't very difficult :) ) and talk about wine. I learned to blend wine and am now officially a winemaker courtesy of the 'blending bench' class at d'Arenberg winery. We were walked through understanding the differences between 3 different red wines and then got the chance to make a few different blends. Once we had made a blend that we liked, we made a bottle of it to take home and save for a special occasion!

On our last night in Adelaide, we went to the end of a pier to enjoy the sunset after walking along the beach. As we were watching the sun drop into the ocean, a couple in their eighties grabbed the spot next to us. After a few minutes of silence, the man decided that he wanted a photo of his wife on the pier at sunset. He pulled out his flip phone and began wrestling with it, attempting to determine how to take a photo. When I noticed him struggling, I offered to take a photo of the two of them. After taking their photo, they thanked me and insisted that they do the same for Linnea and me even though they both said that they "don't know how to use cell phones." After I handed my phone to the woman, her husband warned me that she "always cuts his head off" when she takes photos of him. It turns out the he was right that she tends to cut people's heads off in photos, as you can see below. Even though the photo is blurry and part of my head is missing, I thought there was something so charming about the older couple wanting to do something nice for us, even if it meant they had to use something that they weren't comfortable with to do it.

That's all for now. Cheers and thanks for reading!

Melbourne Marathon 2016

Melbourne Marathon 2016

I’m never running a marathon again.
— Me, now

Huh. That sounds familiar, doesn't it? Let's go back a couple of years.

I’m never running a marathon again.
— Me, November 2014

On October 16th, I ran the Melbourne Marathon. I can't explain why I decided to run it because, as you saw above, I told myself that I would never do it again after running the Madison Marathon in 2014. Marathons, no matter how much training you do, are painful. Very painful. It is past the distance that humans are built to be able to comfortably run. I'm convinced that training for and running a marathon is past the point of being a healthy choice because of the toll it takes on your body. I knew all of this, yet I still decided to run.

Maybe the training is big part of the reason that I decided to run. I trained for 18 weeks, running 5 days a week and playing basketball once a week. During the week I did one speed workout (fartleks, repeats, etc.) and on the weekend I did my long run. While marathon training is quite grueling and is a big time commitment, there is something very satisfying about putting so much energy into a very tangible goal. This time around, I set two goals. Goal 1: beat my last marathon time (3:29). Goal 2: Break 3:20. Another thing that was good about training was the social aspect. In a city as big as Melbourne, there are running groups that cater to just about any training need. I became a regular at the speed workouts with Crosbie's Crew on Tuesday nights and at the Wednesday night runs with a Melbourne Marathon-sponsored group. It was nice to mix running and socialising and break up the monotony of running solo. In terms of purely physical positives of training, I enjoy being in a nearly perpetual state of "runner's high" and, not that I need my metabolism to speed up, but I also enjoy being able to eat more food. The brunches that I make after long weekend runs are, if I may say so, quite glorious.

I woke up on race day to the sound of the wind howling outside, just as forecasted. Blast! I was hoping the forecast would prove false. Oh well. I had done some studying up on racing strategy during windy days so I wasn't going to let that stop me. Before showering (yes, I showered. I also did my hair. Look good = feel good = race good!), I made breakfast and made sure to take a dose of my favourite Performance-Enhancing Drug: coffee. And yes, if you're wondering, coffee has been shown to improve long-distance running performance. It's also been shown to help people be less upset that they're awake at 5:30am on a Sunday morning. Energised by my PED and peanut butter toast, I headed to the race. 

When I got to the starting line I made a beeline for my 3:20 pacers. For those who haven't watched a marathon, there are usually "pacers" who are hired to run at a certain pace throughout the race to help other runners run at their intended pace. It was immediately obvious how much bigger this marathon was than the first one I ran in Madison. It was a lot of work to sneak my way through the crowd. Once the Australian national anthem was played and the starting gun was fired, I focused on not letting my adrenaline get the best of me and cause me to run too fast at the start. Once I found a groove, I distracted myself during the first 25km by attempting to use other runners to shield the wind and scanning the crowd for Linnea, who was bombing around the course on her bike. She managed to see me at several different spots throughout the run and it was great to have somebody continuing to cheer for me as it got more and more difficult. I really started to feel it around the 35km mark, at which point we had to endure 2km up a steady incline. I wasn't sure I would ever catch my breath and my legs felt like they couldn't possibly maintain my pace long enough to finish strong. My knees hurt, my hips hurt, and I didn't think I would be able to summon the energy to continue. However, I thought about all of the long runs that I had done in preparation for this point in the race, and luckily that training enabled me to keep my legs moving. The marathon finished inside of the Melbourne Cricket Ground. I don't remember ever smiling bigger than I did when I entered the grounds. I was smiling for a couple of reasons: I beat my goal time by a couple of minutes (3:18) and I could stop running soon.

Immediately after the race, I could barely walk. The next day, I could barely walk. The rule of thumb is that you should take it easy for about as many miles as you ran, so I'm taking a bit of time off from running to let my body recover fully. I'm thinking that my next race will be a half marathon and I don't see another marathon in my future. Give me a couple of years to forget the suffering endured during this marathon, however, and it might be a different story.

Thoughts on Moving Abroad

Thoughts on Moving Abroad

I haven't written in a little while. I'd like to say that I've been busy, but that doesn't provide enough detail to do justice to what I've been up to. Plus, saying 'I've been busy' is so overused as a reason to not do something that I feel as though it doesn't mean much. The better way to describe what I've been up to the last several weeks is that I've been focusing on making Melbourne feel more like home.

Making a new city feel like home is hard. Making a new city in a new country feel like home is even harder. Yes, Australian culture is pretty similar to American culture. We speak the same language (although sometimes it doesn't feel like it) and like a lot of the same things. However, the cultural adjustment hasn't been the hard part for me. The hard part has been leaving friends, family and the familiar behind to start over completely. I didn't leave Madison because I was ready to leave Madison or because I didn't like the people there. In fact, it was quite the opposite. I really liked living in Madison. I was very happy with my social circle. On weekends (and some weeknights), I was busy with fun things ("funtivities") and socialising. I was close enough to family that I could easily make it back to Minneapolis for a weekend if I wanted to do so. To go from that to knowing nobody and having nothing to do outside of work has been the hard part about making Melbourne feel like home.

When you move abroad, especially to an exciting place like Australia, people seem to assume that you're automatically having an amazing time. "What an adventure!" they often say, or "You're going to have so much fun!" I have also heard. While yes, it has been an adventure and I've had a lot of fun so far, I want to acknowledge that this doesn't describe every moment of every day. If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook, it's not obvious that this is the case. Of course I'm going to post the fun and interesting things and leave out the rest. I have had plenty of lonely nights and weekends with nothing to do. Even when I was socialising early after I moved to Melbourne, I sometimes felt lonely because I didn't know the people around me very well. While I realise that I'm not the first person to point this out (in fact, there was a recent This American Life episode that touched on this), I need to say it: it's difficult to make friends as an adult. Up until now, I have been very lucky to be in situations where friends came very easily. I lived in the same school district for all of my school-going years growing up. Making friends in college was easy because I lived in the dorms around a great group of guys. Moving to Madison to work at Epic was easy as well because hundreds of like-minded recent college graduates began working at Epic the same summer as me. Now that I'm in a new city without a built-in network, making friends has been more of a conscious effort than ever before.

About a month ago, I had several weeknights in a row with nothing planned after work. I was dreading it. I don't do well with inactivity. Instead of feeling sorry for myself, I finally decided I would do something about it. I joined a netball team (more about this sport later) that plays on Monday nights, I found a couple of running groups that meet on Tuesday and Wednesday nights to combine marathon training and socialising and my basketball team plays on Thursdays. Adios, inactivity. Hello, things to do and people to meet! With more things to do during the week and getting to know more people to spend time with on the weekends, Melbourne feels like home. I'm even a weekend regular at a coffee shop near my place! The barista greets me knowingly, not at all surprised that I show up drenched in sweat from my Saturday morning run.

I realise that writing about the difficulties of moving to another country (or city) isn't very sexy or fun. It doesn't encourage you to live vicariously through me or want to dream about where you would like to move. However, I've had a conversation about these difficulties with many expats and figured that these thoughts were worth sharing. I also want you to realise that I am not the only person going through this. You likely have a coworker, classmate or neighbour who is new in town. Chances are they are going through something similar to what I've described. I encourage you to make them feel welcome! Get a coffee or a drink with that person or ask them to join you in whatever you have going on that weekend. Trust me when I say that it will mean a lot to them in helping them feel at home in a new city to have something to do other than work, school or whatever they moved to your city to do. I was lucky enough to meet a handful of great people in Melbourne who included me in funtivities and thought of me while making plans, which made me feel very welcome.

To be clear, I am very happy that I moved. I don't want anybody to feel bad for me. As I have dealt with the consequences (good and bad) of the move, I have grown and learned about myself and the world around me. I have no intention of discouraging anyone from moving. In fact, it's the opposite. I think moving, whether it's across the state, the country or the world, is a wonderful thing. There is so much to see and do in the world and moving is a great way to experience that. And if you're thinking about moving but don't know where to go, I can't recommend Melbourne enough. It's a vibrant city full of culture, sport, food and drink that has something for everyone.

Now that we've gotten the 'being real' portion of this blog post, we will resume a rapid-fire version of our regularly-scheduled programming, which attempts to answer one or both of these questions: 'what's Ben up to and what's next?'

Netball: I joined a netball team. Alex, my housemate, mentioned that it's a good social sport and I had seen enough of it to know that my basketball background would be helpful. I would describe it as a hybrid of basketball and ultimate frisbee - there is no contact allowed and no movement while you have the ball like in ultimate, and the goal is to score by 'shooting goals' on backboard-less basketball hoop. I was pretty lost the first game or two that I played, but I feel like I have gotten the hang of it now. It is the first time that I have played in a female-dominated sport, meaning that more females are on the court at a time than males. In other co-ed sports that I've played in the past (soccer, softball, volleyball), the rules allowed for more males on the field of play than females and we would still often struggle to have enough females to field a team. It is also very 'social' and not very competitive, which I thought I would be fine with going into the season. However, I underestimated my competitiveness. While I'm doing everything I can to win and attempting to will my teammates to run faster and jump higher, the referees are coming up to us after games and telling us things like 'you guys have all improved SO much in the last couple of games. I'm proud of all of you!' Anyway, here's a photo of (most of) our team. Notice the letters on our bibs. Those are the positions that we play, which indicate which sections of the court you're allowed to be on during play.

Running: Occasionally it feels as though running has taken over my life. I began training for the Melbourne marathon 13 weeks ago. There are now 5 weeks to go before the race. I maxed out my long training run this morning at 20 miles. I'll do one more 20 mile run in a couple of weeks before dialing back the mileage to rest my legs for the race. My goal is to beat my previous marathon time of 3:29 - I hope to finish around 3:20. Melbourne has beautiful running paths that are very accessible, which has made the training process quite pleasant. The photo at the top of this blog post was taken on a run a couple of weeks ago.

Travel planning: I am very excited about what the future has in store regarding travel. My travel partner (aka lovely girlfriend) Linnea moves to Melbourne on Friday. We already have flights purchased for multiple locations, but once she arrives we have a lot of details to work out for these trips. In October, after the marathon is over, we are going to Adelaide for a long weekend in wine country. In November, my brother is visiting and he and I have a long weekend in Sydney to plan. In early December, Linnea and I jet off to Phuket, Thailand for a week of outdoor activities on gorgeous islands and beaches. In February, my parents spend some time in Melbourne and then Linnea and I are going to meet them in New Zealand for a week of alpine scenery. On top of all that, I'd like to continue exploring Victoria. There is a lot to see in my new state! This weekend, I enjoyed a day trip to Phillip Island. This island is home to the famous Penguin Parade, which attracts visitors from all over the world. The penguins were great, but the highlight was getting to feed kangaroos and wallabies in the wildlife park.

Thanks for reading! If you haven't already done so, subscribe below if you want to receive updates in the future.

Ta,

Ben

Great Ocean Road, Sydney and the USA

Great Ocean Road, Sydney and the USA

G'day y'all!

It was a busy June and July. 

Craig and Doug

I recently had my first visitors in Melbourne. Craig Melhuse, a close friend and co-founder of MABAS (formerly known as the Madison Area Beer Appreciation Society, now known as the Melbourne Area Beverage Appreciation Society), decided to quit his job recently and do a bit of traveling. He was accompanied by Doug Bright, a old friend of Craig's (and a new friend of mine) who had also quit his job and wanted to see the world. They showed up and crashed at my place, which they very much enjoyed as they had been bouncing between hostels throughout southeast Asia for the couple of months prior.

I'm getting a little bit ahead of myself, but a couple of weeks after I was with Craig and Doug I was back in Wisconsin at the family cabin (which we affectionately call 'The Doubletall') with family and friends. Every time I started a story with "when I was with Craig and Doug," my mom couldn't help but laugh. Every time. A week later, my partner (which is what Australians say instead of 'girlfriend' or 'boyfriend') Linnea saw something on social media that said something like this: "Are any babies born named Craig or do they just become Craig when they turn 30?" OK, good find Linnea. I now (kind of) understand why my mom couldn't stop laughing.

Great Ocean Road and Melbourne

The morning after the fellas arrived, we hopped in a rental car (driving on the left side - eek!) and headed west. We were on our way to the Great Ocean Road. The GOR is a winding coastal road that was built by returned soldiers after World War I. The road is full of things to see, including beautiful coastal lookouts, hikes in the rain forest and quaint fishing villages. We spent the morning of the first day doing the inland drive so we could get that part out of the way. Since Doug and I had never met each other before, we played a game to speed up the process and kill time on the drive: each person has 3 minutes to tell their life story and then there are 3 minutes for questions. I was surprised how much you can learn about somebody in that amount of time.

We made it to the 12 Apostles, which is an enchanting rock formation off the coast that we used as the starting point for our journey along the road back to Melbourne. Along the way we befriended a Scandinavian couple (a detail worth remembering), saw kangaroos and koalas (which we would begin calling 'tree lumps' because they are very sloth-like, which is to say that they don't do anything) and had birds land on our heads.

After a terrific weekend of meandering along the Great Ocean Road, which included one night in lovely Apollo Bay, it was back to business as usual for me. I worked that week while Craig and Doug explored Melbourne. However, it wasn't quite business as usual because Chef Doug and Sous Chef Craig cooked me dinner several nights that week, setting an example for any future house guests: I'm happy to host if you're happy to cook me a meal or two (especially if that meal contains kangaroo meatballs!). One of the evenings in Melbourne we explored the Winter Night Market, enjoying a dinner of street food a mulled wine. That night we were treated to one of those moments after which all you can say is "wow, it's a small world." Among the throngs of people deciding between food vendors at the market and several days after we had shared wine at our hostel with them, we just happened to run into the only people we met on the Great Ocean Road: the Scandinavian couple! After acknowledging the coincidence of our encounter, we parted ways. Our last hurrah in Melbourne was catching the footy (Australian Rules Football) at the Melbourne Cricket Ground. Fun fact: the MCG is the 10th-largest stadium in the world and the largest in the Southern Hemisphere (Australians love saying "It's the <insert impressive statement here> in the Southern Hemisphere!"). 

Sydney

We arrived in Sydney with just a weekend left together. We stayed at an Airbnb in Rushcutters Bay, a suburb (remember, suburb means neighbourhood here) east of the CBD in Sydney. Side note: Airbnb is great. We got to see a part of town that we certainly wouldn't have seen if staying in a hotel or hostel and it was wonderful to have a space that allowed us to feel like locals instead of visitors. Anyway, our first order of business was to orient ourselves. We took a walking tour around the city that did a great job of that and from there we were ready to explore on our own. The next couple of days were filled with activities, including taking the ferry to Manly Beach, a hike from Coogee to Bondi, the surprisingly interesting Australian currency museum (which we only went to because it was raining), Finding Dory, more dumplings than I can count and gambling on crab races. I enjoyed visiting Sydney, but I have much more of the city to see. I'll be back.

USA

For much of July, I was in the US for work. Just because I was around didn't mean I couldn't have some fun while at home.

When I landed in Minneapolis after 25 hours of traveling, my brother Mac picked me up from the airport. We headed straight to The Doubletall for a long weekend with family and friends (if I had been in the US a few weeks later, I would've met the latest addition to the family - welcome to the world and hello from Australia, Eli!). It was a weekend that may go down in family history as it was the first ever Foley Family Food Fight. This is a weekend-long event that pairs people up (no couples allowed!) to see who can make the best brunch or dinner for the whole group. In the end, we were all declared winners because were treated to everything from deluxe nachos to baked brie at brunch. Outside of cooking, we filled our time with board games and outdoor activities, especially river-based ones. The favourite of these river-based activities was our self-organised float trip down the Apple River on the Fourth of July, which was a rousing success that I also hope becomes a tradition.

After leaving The Doubletall, I had a couple of days working in Madison before heading back to Minneapolis with Linnea to go the wedding of a friend who I grew up with (congrats Justin and Jenny!). It was great to be back in Minneapolis and see friends from high school and college. I love weddings. I'll take any excuse to prove to the world that I'm a bad dancer.

Linnea and I headed back to Madison after the wedding, relieved to not have to spend any more time driving on I-94 in the near future. I had 9 days left in the US, which, when I wasn't working, I spent doing some of my favourite things in Madison: Concerts on the Square, the terrace, November Project, run around the lake, a biking brewery tour and spending time with the friends who are still in Madison.

Now that I'm back in Melbourne without a trip to the US in sight, it feels like this is really home. Lately I've been working on making that a reality by sprucing up my place and getting out to meet more people. Updates on how that's going next time. Cheers!

Hamilton Island

Hamilton Island

I recently ventured into Queensland (my third state in Australia!) for the first time for a long weekend in Hamilton Island. No, I did not see a certain hit Broadway musical while I was there. No, it’s not named after the same guy who’s on the $10USD bill. Yes, the primary mode of transportation on the island is golf cart.

Wait, you didn’t ask about the primary mode of transportation? Well, you should have. Hustling around the island in golf carts is way too much fun.

My trip partners were a couple of friends who work at Epic Melbourne with me. We arrived late morning on a Friday with a return flight booked for Monday afternoon, taking advantage of the Queen’s Birthday (a public holiday here). Contrary to a lot of the traveling that I’ve done in the past, I had nearly no plans for the trip. I hadn’t done much research about Hamilton Island. I was on the trip for exactly one reason: Alex and Alli invited me to join them.

Lucky for me, I happened to sit next to a couple on the airplane with Hamilton Island experience. Ray and Marie were in their late fifties and happy to chat me up once we got settled on our Qantas flight. After exchanging pleasantries (we have a son your age!), we took each other’s movie suggestions and very much enjoyed our flight (side note: Qantas gave us a substantial snack and back of the seat entertainment. In economy class. For free. They will be getting my business again). During the descent, Marie gave me several suggestions for keeping island activities. All of those suggestions turned out to be on point. As we parted ways at baggage claim, I thanked them for the recommendations and they said “no worries, see you around!” I thought to myself, “that’s a nice sentiment, but no you won’t.”

Two days later. Alli, Alex and I are walking to the infinity pool near the condo we’re renting.

“Hi Ray! Hi Marie!” I exclaim as we happened upon my flight-mates. Somehow, even though we had met just two days previous, it felt like we were old friends.
“How you going, Ben? How was the sunset paddle?” Ray replied, a smile on his face as he realised that he was correct to say “see you later” instead of “goodbye” in the airport.

Of course this conversation continued, but I won’t bore you with more details. This anecdote illustrates two things: 1. Australians are very friendly. It’s wonderful. I feel so welcome when I am out and about, whether it’s buying a coffee or shipping something at the post office. I’m used to Minnesota Nice, but there’s some passive-aggressiveness that comes with that. You might call this Australian Amiable? That doesn’t quite roll off the tongue but it gets the point across. 2. Hamilton Island is kind of a strange place. It’s so small that you see all of the same people all weekend. Cockatoos are everywhere. Everything (including the island itself) is privately owned. Outside of walking, the only mode of transport available is golf cart.

However, strange is fine with me when the sunset looks like this:

And when the available activities includes stand up paddleboarding on the ocean:

I feel like I need to be honest regarding the photo above: it was extremely difficult to take. There was some chop in the ocean that day and my balance is less than impressive. I took several unintentional, wave-induced dives into the water throughout the course of our paddleboarding experience.

In summary, my trip to Hamilton Island was lovely. It was nice to be able to soak up some sun during the surprisingly miserable Melbourne winter and I very much enjoyed how much relaxing we did. Let shift focus to my Melbourne life. You may have already heard the big news, (unless you’ve been living under a rock ;) ) but here it is anyway: my men’s league basketball team won the championship! Actually I probably shouldn’t call it a championship. Aussies call it a grand final. Let’s try again: my men’s league basketball team won the grand final! I told my teammates that this gave me the right to a cool title: international basketball champion. However, I was corrected with an even cooler title: intercontinental basketball champion. I can’t believe I sold myself short like that. In fact, I’ve been selling myself short since 2011 when me and the rest of the Londomers took home my first men’s league basketball title. Mostly because it's fun for me to reminisce, let’s take a quick look at where my basketball career has taken me:

The Londomers. Out of the 120 or so Notre Dame students who were studying abroad in London in the autumn of 2011, we found 7 who wanted to play in a local men's league. After all, we needed to stay sharp for Bookstore Basketball.

House of Curds. Combining one of the first Netflix original series and what Wisconsin does best, this team was very aptly named for a group of millennials living in Madison. This team was full of of (mostly) Epic employees who wanted to continue to live out their basketball-playing glory days.

Just Play Bears. We all signed up to ball separately with an organisation called Just Play, which is where the name comes from. They allow you to sign up as an individual for rec sports leagues and place you on a team. For autograph seekers out there, we can often be found at Littlefoot Bar enjoying a pint after games.

Thanks for taking the time to read this. I need to finish up because I need to head to the first game of our new basketball season. Next time I'll fill you in on the Great Ocean Road, Sydney and possibly my trip to the US in early-mid July.

Ta!

Ben

Tasmania

Tasmania

Hi!

I write this as someone who has now been to Tasmania. Sounds pretty exotic, doesn't it? Six months ago if you would have asked Past Ben where Tasmania is, I'm almost certain that he would have said something other than Australia. Past Ben is wrong. Tassie is one of the six states in 'straya (I live in Victoria). It's an island off the southern coast and just an hour flight from Melbourne. It seems to have this reputation as a place full of bogans (look at me picking up on the Aussie terms!) which I think causes mainlanders to shy away from it. In fact, I've met a few locals who have spent their entire lives in Melbourne and have never been to Tassie. This is a bummer for them because my first encounter with the state was lovely.

Before I tell you about Tassie, allow me to explain what lead to this trip. There I was, 10 days before Anzac day weekend (a three day weekend) without any plans. This is unacceptable. I feel a very strong need to take advantage of opportunities to go on adventures, and it seemed as though I was going to waste this opportunity. I had FOMO (to the non-millennials out there this stands for Fear Of Missing Out) even though there wasn't anything specific that I was going to miss out on. I had heard good things about Tassie from several folks and I attempted to organise a trip. However, everybody I asked to join me already had plans. I even toyed with the idea of jetting to Tasmania alone, but I was too chicken to pull the trigger due to the extrovert's nightmare that ran through my mind.

What if I am alone for the whole trip? Who am I going to talk to? I need human interaction and how can I possibly get it if I travel ALONE??
— An anxious extrovert

I understand that these concerns aren't reason to not go on a trip. I do hope to travel alone at some point because it's something that I've never done before, but that's a topic for another time. Anyway, I was stuck planless for ANZAC day when, 4 days before the weekend, my saviour came in the form of George. He works at Royal Children's Hospital and we had met a couple of times in passing. He heard through the grapevine that I was interested in going to Tassie over Anzac Day weekend which is exactly what he had plans to do. He invited me to join him and a couple of his friends for a long weekend of hiking and wine drinking in and around Freycinet National Park. And what do you do when someone you've met a few times invites you on a trip with him and a few strangers? You accept the offer, of course!

The trip ended up being lovely. We flew into Launceston and spontaneously stopped at a small winery for lunch, wine and live music on our way to the park - a great start to the trip! Once we got settled in our rental house in Coles Bay, we spent our days hiking in Freycinet National Park and our nights drinking wine and playing Settlers of Catan and Bananagrams (for the uninitiated, these are board games). That's a difficult combination of activities to beat, especially since Freycinet National Park lies at a gorgeous intersection of beaches and mountains. On our only full day in Tassie, we hiked a big loop around the park, which included a stop at Wineglass Bay. The water was very cold, but that didn't stop us from taking a refreshing dip in the crystal clear saltwater.

The next day, we decided to summit Mount Amos. This ended up being a challenging endeavour due to the fact that we were doing more scrambling across rocks and rock faces than hiking. I loved it! When hiking, I often go out of my way to do some scrambling (Devil's Lake near Madison is a great spot for this) so I was thrilled that this was required to get to the top. The work to get to the top was definitely worth it when we saw the view from the top. Pictures don't do it justice, but here's what we saw from the top. The strip of beach is Wineglass Bay, which is where we were the day before.

Here's the face of someone who's told to jump for a picture and doesn't realise how small his landing space is until he's already in the air.

And here's the face of someone who just met his first wallaby. I had no idea what a wallaby looked like before I met this little guy but I don't think I could've imagined a more adorable creature.

My first trip to Tasmania left me wanting more. I have my eyes on Hobart as my next destination in Tassie. My next trip is happening in June: I'll be going to Hamilton Island, which is off the northeastern coast of Australia, for a long weekend with a couple of friends.

Speaking of friends, I think I have been doing a good job meeting people. My co-workers are a good group so I see them outside of work pretty often. Most of them have been here for about 18 months (and will be leaving soon unfortunately) but they have introduced me to their Aussie friends. It's nice to be able to take advantage of the fact that my coworkers have been here for a while. I joined a basketball team right when I got here and we occasionally grab a beer after our weekly game. With the NBA finals coming up, I will be seeing them more often because we have gamewatches planned (if you are wondering, yes the NBA is big here. Very big. I see a lot of Warriors and Bulls gear). I have also been using Meetup quite a bit to go to activities and meet people. So far, I've used Meetup to join people at trivia night, to go on a tour of Melbourne's old arcades and laneways, to play super nerdy board games over beers and go for a run. Some of these events have lead to exchanging contact details with somebody and some haven't, but Meetup has been a great resource so far. Finally, I have been set up on a couple of 'man dates' with a friend of a friend. There is no better way to describe these interactions than 'man date.' I have a lot of the same silly thoughts before and after these interactions as I have if it were a romantic date with a pretty lady.

I think that went well. We had a nice time getting drinks. We did have a nice time, right? I was pretty charming, after all. I think I’ll see him again. Should I text him or wait for him to text me?
— Thoughts after a man date

For those of you who have seen 'I Love You, Man,' I very much feel like Paul Rudd when I'm on 'man dates' and exchanging phone numbers with a dude at a Meetup event. While the whole process may feel kind of goofy, I'm glad I'm getting out there and meeting people!

As I publish this, Good Beer Week is coming to a close. For a beer geek like me, it's a great week to live in Melbourne because there are hundreds of events going on across the city over 10 days. Last weekend, I enjoyed some local beers at my local pub (The Cherry Tree Hotel) courtesy of their regional Victoria tap takeover. I also got to sample beers and chat with the head brewer from Bell's Brewery out of Michigan, makers of Two Hearted, one of my all-time favorite beers. Most recently, I attended an event called 'Victoria vs. the world' in which we sampled beers from Victoria breweries and breweries from other countries, voted on our favourites and the winners moved on in the bracket until the 'Grand Final,' which pitted a Victoria brewery against a New Zealand-based brewery. New Zealand won to the dismay of the Aussies in attendance.

Until next time,

Ben

Getting Comfortable in Cremorne

Getting Comfortable in Cremorne

G’day everybody.

I’m think I’m starting to feel settled in Melbourne now. What exactly do I mean by settled? Well I have a bed, a dresser, a desk that I built from a pallet that I found in my neighbourhood and a cast iron pan. I know where the nearest grocery store, liquor store (don’t worry Mom, just to buy cooking wine) and train station are. I am able to bike to work without having to stop and Google my next step and I’ve only gotten lost once while out on a run. I might even have a few friends!

Yes, that’s right, I said “my neighbourhood” in the previous paragraph. Meaning I have a place to live that isn’t a hotel. Finding a place to live was not a very enjoyable process, but keeping in mind that I only spent 9 nights in the hotel I consider myself lucky. Going into the process I knew that I didn’t want to live alone, meaning that I had two options: move in with someone looking to fill a vacancy in their home or group up with other people looking to share a place. Because I didn’t know anybody else who was looking for a place to live, I focused on finding a place with a vacancy. I ended up spending a LOT of time on various roommate-finding websites the week leading up to my move and the first several days in Melbourne.

A sneak peek of my suburb, Cremorne.

A sneak peek of my suburb, Cremorne.

I ended up looking at 3 places, all with very different vibes: Do I want to sacrifice privacy to save money and be the fourth roommate in a cozy spot? Do I want to share a small flat with a social media professional/food blogger? Or do I want a home with more space, more character and two outdoor areas? Before I tell you which I chose, I want to explain the process. When I went to go see these homes, it wasn’t simply a tour. Of course I was looking at the place and determining whether I could see myself living there. However, it felt like some sort of fusion of a first date and a job interview. In each situation, everyone involved was doing what they could to learn everything they could about the unknown party. “Is this dude normal? Can I see myself chilling with him? Will he do his dishes consistently? Will he judge me if I spend a Friday night with a pint of ice cream and a pile of chick flicks?” Anyway, after seeing the third place that I described, there was no question that was where I wanted to live. At that point, it was just a matter of hoping he would call me back, which propagated the feeling that this was a first date.

“I hope he liked me!” I thought despairingly as I kept my gaze locked on my cell phone awaiting Alex’s call. Every second that passed was another second to think about what I could’ve done better during our meeting. “Does he know how funny I am? Maybe I should call him and tell him a joke…no, that may be a bit much. Would it be weird to offer to do his laundry for a month if he picks me?” Finally the phone rang and my heart leapt. It was Alex and he asked me to be his housemate – of course I said yes!
— Ben being irrational

Okay, so maybe it wasn’t quite that dramatic. Or was it? You might not be shocked to learn that it is extremely boring to live in a hotel room. This is especially true when all you want to do is move in somewhere so that you can stop navigating the explosion of suitcases that is your hotel room floor when you move 9,600 miles.

Alex, my housemate, is a really good guy. We've been getting along great so far. He's a 29 year old Australian who run a small private physio (physical therapy) business and practices as a physio a couple of afternoons each week. I'm excited to hang with him more and get to know him better.

My suburb is called Cremorne, which is very small. I tell locals that I live in the south part of Richmond because many people aren’t familiar with Cremorne. Surrounding my home is a warehouse district with quite a few warehouse buildings that have been converted to apartments or offices. It’s pretty quiet outside of business hours but only a 5 minute walk east to Chapel Street and a 10 minute walk north to Swan Street, both of which are filled with cafes, pubs and restaurants. Not far to the west are Melbourne’s largest and most famous sports arenas, Rod Laver Arena (home of the Australian Open) and the MCG (Melbourne Cricket Ground, host of cricket and Australian Rules Football matches), as well as the gorgeous Royal Botanic Gardens. To the South is the Yarra River, which cuts right through the CBD (Central Business District). There’s a bike path that runs along the river that I take to get to the office. It’s an absolutely lovely 20 minute ride – sometime I will take a video of the ride so that I can share it.

Allow me to give you a very brief tour. I only took photos of a couple of rooms but we also have a living room, an office, a family room and a deck. Here’s what the kitchen/dining room that leads to the patio looks like:

And here’s my bedroom:

And here’s what I was doing on my balcony before writing this:

Now that I’m feeling settled in Melbourne, I’m working on getting to know the city as well as getting some adventures on the books. The latter may take a little while because work is busy with go-live coming soon but after that I hope to get the chance to go on some trips. I will keep you posted.

Cheers,

Ben

Scouting Melbourne

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Scouting Melbourne

Melbourne, Australia is known for many things. It's the most livable city in the world. It's renowned for its coffee, its culture and its green spaces. It's the site of the Australian Open and the Melbourne Cup. 

While these things are all wonderful, in my little world they all pale in comparison to the most important fact about Melbourne: it's my future home. I was lucky enough to get to recently spend two weeks there exploring and getting to know the city. I called it my scouting trip.

Location, location, location

The two weeks I spent in Melbourne gave me quite a bit of time to explore the city and become familiar with the different neighborhoods. One of my main goals of the trip was to decide which neighborhood I plan to live in when I move to Melbourne. To this end, I spent time wandering the city, taking pictures and taking notes so that I could remember what I had seen and compare each area. It immediately became evident that I would want to live in or near the CBD (Central Business District) so that I could quickly get to work and most other places that I will be frequenting via the public trams or my bike. I narrowed my search accordingly and visited every area that I wanted to see (and some twice!). I managed to see the Docklands, North Melbourne, Fitzroy, Collingwood, Richmond, South Bank and St. Kilda. Of course each neighborhood (or suburb, as locals call them) has its own set of charms and list of pros and cons that comes with it. I settled on Fitzroy. It's a hip neighborhood full of young people that has a lot of cafes, restaurants and bars. Based on my impression, you could call it bohemian (or hipster) with a side of yuppie. During the time I spent exploring Fitzroy, I walked past many people who were sharing meals and coffee together on the sidewalks in front of restaurants and cafes. In short, Fitzroy seems lovely and felt like a place I would enjoy calling home.

Food and drink

Early in my trip, I met someone who had been described to me as a 'food consultant.' Because of this, I asked her for restaurant recommendations. She delivered. She sent me a guide to Melbourne restaurants that quickly became my to-do list. Melbourne has food from all over the place and I took advantage of this. I had Thai fusion, paella and Malaysian noodles, to mention a few. It was all delicious. I am looking forward to trying new foods as I explore Melbourne's restaurants.

Outside of trying the varied cuisines available in Melbourne, there was another food group that I sought to familiarize myself with: coffee. As previously mentioned, Melbourne's coffee is held in very high regard. However, when one says 'coffee' in Melbourne it doesn't mean the same thing as 'coffee' does in the US. Order a coffee in the US and you will receive a hot beverage that was filtered through coffee grounds. Order a coffee in Melbourne and you will receive a follow up question: "What kind?" In general, coffee in Melbourne means something espresso-based, with common orders being a flat white and a long black. If you want 'coffee' like we typically drink in the US, you may have trouble finding it. It's known as 'filter coffee' and is somewhat of a specialty. Beverage semantics aside, I found Melbourne's coffee culture to be a delight. The coffee is very good - I developed a particular fondness for a flat white - and the atmosphere of the cafes is friendly and welcoming.

Open-faced chorizo bagel sandwich with a flat white.

Open-faced chorizo bagel sandwich with a flat white.

A little bit of fun

While I was in Melbourne, I spent business hours at work and many non-business hours as previously mentioned, exploring neighborhoods and restaurants. However, the timing of my trip was very fortunate because it allowed me to participate in a couple of fun events. The first week that I was in town was the last week of the Australian Open. For those who don't know, this is one of tennis's four Grand Slams, meaning that tennis's biggest stars were in town, including Serena Williams, Roger Federer and Novak Djokovic. One night after work, I tagged along with a few coworkers who were planning on going to 'the tennis' that night (everybody kept referring to the Aussie Open as 'the tennis' i.e. 'did you watch the tennis last night?'). This was a very cool experience. We got general admission tickets and watched the last American left in the tournament (Isner) lose in the fourth round. I had never been to a professional tennis match, but it was very impressive in person.

The first Tuesday that I was in town was a public holiday known as Australia Day. This is Australia's Fourth of July, and they celebrate their independence in a similar manner to the US: BBQing in the backyard, enjoying beverages in the sun, taking a dip in the pool and watching fireworks. I was able to tag along to an Australia Day get together in a local's backyard and enjoy all of these fun-tivities. I also got to learn how to play cricket, which is something that I've wanted to try ever since I saw graduate students playing it on the quad at Notre Dame. It turns out that baseball experience doesn't help as much as I hoped it would and it's really difficult to hit a ball after it bounces. Luckily it wasn't a big deal that I was a rookie because we were playing 'garden cricket,' which is similar to shooting hoops in that you are playing a particular sport there aren't any real rules and you're mostly hanging out.

Looking forward

This trip made me more excited about my upcoming move to Melbourne. Of course I still have a few things that I'm anxious about, but it was great to get the chance to explore my future home and validate my decision to move. March 30th (my move date) is going to come very quickly and there is a lot to take care of between now and then.

Cheers, mate.

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